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A Romantic Tour of Rome and Florence

08/21/2007 11:08 a.m.

Arno River - FlorenceAt the end of May, my wife and I went on our one-year anniversary trip to Italy, a trip filled with pasta, mozzarella, veal, gelato, sightseeing, cafe americano and lots of red wine!

We started in Rome for three days and nights, and stayed at Hotel Mascagni, which was recommended to us by Kelly, our travel agent. Mascagni is in an odd location, among all the government buildings, so it's not exactly a fun, bustling area. The hotel itself is moderately affordable, quaint and clean, although it did have some air conditiong problems, not great during a heat wave. It is a 10-minute walk away from Trevi Fountain, which we went to on our first day there, very close to the shopping area of Via Veneto, and a subway ride away from the Ancient Rome sites like the Forum and the Colliseum. 

During our first full day, we went to Vatican City with the help of a tour guide, who helped us understand Michelangelo's process of painting the ceiling of the Sisteen Chapel. We went in the afternoon, which seemed like the right choice. Make sure when you go to the Vatican, that you look up the times and days that it's open.

On the second full day, we toured the Forum and the Colliseum, both incredible works of architecture and each well-preserved. But they are tourist traps, and when you go, you need to be prepared for long lines. We met some nice people on the line from Australia, though, who gave us restaurant recommendations for Florence (our next stop in Italy). We signed up for a guided tour of the Colliseum (with the Forum tour included for "Free"). The only benefit we gained from the tour guide was her ability to get us past the long line of non-guided tourists and into the site itself. But her tour itself was sub-par. Her colleague's tour of the forum was fantastic, though.

After our tour of ancient Rome, we visited the Jewish Ghetto, and had lunch at a restaurant that served the best fried artichokes we'd ever had. This is a specialty dish in the Jewish Ghetto, so don't miss it if you like artichokes and fried food.

The following morning, we took a train up to Florence, a city rich in culture and history. We settled into Hotel Albani that afternoon and took a walk over to the Academia, where we had made an advance reservation to see Michelangelo's sculpture of David. There was nothing else of interest to see at Academia, but the statue of David is such an incredible work of art and attention to detail that it was worth the price of admission.  

That evening, we went to a restaurant that we will remember forever. La Giostra, while not the restaurant where the locals go, was a culinary experience for the ages, especially for people who love the food of Tuscany, the region in which Florence lies. We shared a vegetable carpaccio, full of zucchini, squash, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil and olive oil, that melted in our mouths. And then I had a fresh pappardelle pasta with a plentiful amount of a braised wild boar bolognese that I did not want to stop eating. My wife had a ravioli filled with brie and artichoke that was also delicious. We also shared a steak tagliata, a florentine hangar steak topped with arugula salad and parmigiano reggiano. And all of this food was topped off with a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino, a fine wine of Tuscany.

The following day, we ate lunch at a restaurant called Trattoria Mario, in San Lorenzo square. I could not believe that I was eating a Veal Chop with fries and drinking a glass of house wine at Noon. And we were sharing a table with a father and son from the area, giving us an experience of locals. We would not have found this restaurant without our Australian friends from the Colliseum tour.

Later that day, we climbed a windy staircase to the top of the Duomo, a cathedral with a famed dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. At the top of the Duomo, when you get outside, you can get a breathtaking view of Florence and the villages of Tuscany. Standing up there was a triumphant moment for me, who is notoriously terrified of heights. To reward me for my braver, my wife bought me some delicious gelato. 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Tags: western europe, florence, rome, italy

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