Superlative Dining In Tallinn, Estonia
09/14/2007 03:09 a.m.
Tallinn, on the shores of the Baltic sea in Estonia, is swiftly becoming one of Europe’s most exciting places to visit. Despite the fact that it is extremely rich in history and heritage, Tallinn is an extraordinarily modern city which looks to the future with brash confidence.
Tallinn's Old Town with its fully renovated old masterpiece buildings is the spot to go to enjoy fine Nordic brews with a crispness and hoppiness all their own. The Old Town is a magnificently preserved section which glorifies the profound historical aspect of this city while places such as the tall spire of the Raekoda Town Hall that dominates the Tallinn skyline, show a more modern side of Tallinn. A visit to the top of the Toompea hillside reveals spectacular views of the mighty Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral, built by Tsar Alexander III.
The local restaurants have improved to a world-class level in just a few years. It was not too long ago when dining in Tallinn meant a stodgy lump of herring and potato salad to accompany a main course of greasy pigs ears in sauerkraut. Fortunately those days are long gone. Today, diners can choose anything from pancakes the size of a plate to various game as exquisite as reindeer. In the gourmet line, many Estonian specialties prepared by great chefs as some of Tallinn's best national restaurants such as Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, Tallinnn Estonian House, Kolu Kõrts, and Vanaema Juures (Grandma's Place) will definitely tantalize your tastebuds.
Among the most impressive and memorable Estonian dishes: Taidetud Vasikarind which is a roast stuffed shoulder of veal; Sült which is pork prepared by boiling the gelatin out of pig's feet and heads; Silgusoust, a delectable ham based dish; Mulgikapsad, a rich sauerkraut stew based on barley and bacon; Keel Hernestega, a tongue appetizer; plus jellied veal, blood sausage, liver pate and brawn.
The Hakklihakotlet local ground meat patties will completely change your mind about hamburger. Rosolje combines sour cream, herring, ham, potatoes, cucumbers, apples and beets into a completely unforgettable flavour treat. When you thought you had seen the most unusual food combinations possible, along comes Võrtsjärv casserole which takes peeled squash, ground meat, smoked ribs, garlic and onion, layers this with herbed tomatoes, and then covers the whole thing with a mixture of eggs and milk. The result is one of the heartiest and most delicious dishes you will encounter anywhere.
It is important for restaurant goers to note that Estonian single portions are enough to feed a small American family. If you thought they served big portions in backcountry Alabama BBQs, the portion size in Estonia puts Bubba to shame.
Even the somewhat rigorous winter doesn’t seem to slow down the night life of Tallinn at all. The bars and clubs along Harju and Suur-Karja still beckon as do the sizzling hot clubs along Vana-Posti and Ahtri. Tallinn is a city for all seasons that just begs to be discovered.
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